PROJECT: Pine Entry Bench

PROJECT: Pine Entry Bench

As per usual with new designs, I sat down at my computer and drafted some scale drawings. Building the entry bench from the ground up in CAD helps tweak dimensions and scale without wasting materials on mis-cuts and rebuilds. I determined I’d start with a frame made from 1″ x 2″ select pine. The back would be made with 1″ x 6″ pine tongue-and-groove lumber, which brings in that lovely look of shiplap for a timeless and sturdy backdrop. I designed the seats and shelves to be made from a piece of 4′ x 4′ paint-grade 3/4″ plywood. All of this lumber is easy to find at your local big-box home improvement store. When you are shopping, take the time to sort through the dimension lumber in order to find the straightest pieces. It will make your job easier in the long run, believe me!

Cutting pine lumber for entry bench at miter saw
Because many of the pieces of the entry bench are made from dimension lumber, cutting them to length is the first step. A miter saw is a great tool for this task.

Start by cutting to length the eight pieces of 1 x 2 that make up the legs. See the Material List for the cutting details. A miter saw or radial arm saw are perfect for this task, but what’s most important is that they all are cut to exact length.

Gluing up entry bench leg assembly
Make the leg subassemblies by gluing two pieces of 1 x 2 into an L-shaped configuration. The “L” shape adds strength and heft to the legs.

When you have the leg pieces in hand, it’s time to glue them up. Glue and clamp them into L shaped lengths for strength and durability. A quick tip on this is to use another scrap piece of 1 x 2 as a spacer to hold everything in place for glue.

Aligning entry bench leg assembly using scrap wood spacer
A handy trick for aligning these L-shaped glue-ups is to use a spare piece of 1 x 2 to position the leg pieces for clamping. It makes the task easier and more accurate.

Set the clamped-up pieces aside for an hour or so while you cut the rest of the components of the framework. Once again, how you cut them is less important than that you achieve square cuts at the proper lengths.

Clamping up entry bench leg assembly during glue-up
Just a couple of clamps are required for each of the front legs. The back legs are much longer but have the same L-shaped design. Let the glue cure for at least an hour.

Now is also the time to cut the plywood parts for the seat and shelf (pieces 12 and 13 in the Drawings) to the measurements found in the Material List. With that done, you are well on your way.

Building Side Assemblies

Cutting entry bench subassembly plywood on table saw
While the glue is curing on other parts, go ahead and cut the seat and the shelf to size. A piece of 48″-square, 3/4″-thick plywood will yield both of these parts.

We’ll assemble the framework of the bench using pocket screws to join most of these pieces together, so grab your Kreg Jig and get it set up.

Using Kreg pocket-hole jig on entry bench leg assembly
Pocket-hole joints are the primary means of assembling this entry bench.

Pre-drill the pocket holes in the side returns (pieces 3). The first task is to glue and pocket- screw these four returns to the shaped front legs (made from pieces 1) and to the long rear legs that are made from pieces 2. See the Drawings for details. You need to produce left- and right-facing side assemblies.

Clamping and screwing together pine entry bench assembly
Here a return (piece 3) is being attached to a front leg subassembly with screws and glue.

With the side assemblies completed, grab the front rails (pieces 4) and the rear stretchers (pieces 6, 7 and 9) and, with more pocket holes and glue, use these pieces to join the two side assemblies.

Marking out entry bench subassembly for glue-up
Here, the author is marking the location of the return’s joint on the back leg subassembly.

Once this framework comes together, your project should be starting to look like a bench! Go ahead and attach the top cap (piece 8) to the upper rear stretcher by gluing and clamping.

Adding the Seat and Shelf

Clamping pine entry bench subassembly during glue-up
Notice that the L-shaped front and back leg subassemblies are oriented the same way, with the “L” facing backward.

Let’s move on to the seat and shelves. Gather the plywood pieces you cut to size earlier. Pieces 10 and 11 wrap around three edges of the seat. Attach them with glue and screws as shown.

Adding pocket hole screws to pine entry bench subassembly
The author clamps a small block onto the back leg to keep the pieces properly aligned as he drives the screws to attach the return.

The shelf sits on two shelf supports (pieces 14) that need to be glued to make another L shaped form on the bottom edges of pieces 4 and 9. Glue and clamp them in place and allow the glue to cure. Don’t attach either the seat or shelf yet until after finishing.

Gluing ends of pine entry bench assembly

The back is made up of 1 x 6 tongue-and-groove lumber. Chop these pieces to length and screw them in place (no glue required). I countersunk the holes in the back pieces to make this task easier and to keep the screws flush to the back surface. Start with the piece at the top of the back and work down. You will need to trim the last piece to fit.

Attaching seat to the pine entry bench base assembly
The edges of the seat are wrapped with 1 x 2 lumber glued and screwed in place. Once again, pocket-hole joints make these connections.

You are essentially done with the construction of the bench, but you still have some work to do. I painted my bench white, but even if you plan to apply a clear finish instead, you need to sand it smooth. If you are painting, sanding to 150-grit will be sufficient. A clear finish requires moving up to 180-grit.

Assembling back slats for pine entry bench
Tongue-and-groove lumber for the back slats creates the look of shiplap paneling. Install them between the back legs with countersunk screws. Start at the top and work down. You’ll need to trim the bottom slat to final width to fit the space.

Apply the first coat of paint, preferably a primer of some sort, and look for holes and cracks. Fill them with spackle or some other sort of filler. Gently sand the painted surfaces with 180-grit paper to smooth them. Now apply another coat, and once again check for flaws in the surfaces.

If you are going to be mounting the hardware hooks on the bench, now is the time to measure and drill for their installation screws. Then do another gentle sanding pass and apply the final coat of your paint or clear finish.

Mount the seat and shelf, install the hooks and the task is done. You’ve got a beautiful entry bench that will last for years. Enjoy!

Download the Drawings and Materials List.

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