PROJECT: Arts & Crafts Entertainment Center

PROJECT: Arts & Crafts Entertainment Center

The entertainment center is a relatively new addition to the lexicon of American furniture forms, one that was necessarily developed long after the era of the Arts and Crafts movement. Nevertheless, it’s possible to design an entertainment center reflecting this traditional style by bringing to the piece some of the identifying characteristics common to the Arts and Crafts movement, a style that dominated quality American furniture making at the dawn of the 20th century.

This entertainment center (which I built for my son Andrew) was designed to provide support for a large video gaming monitor as well as the game systems and storage for the game cases. Fortunately, those game cases are the same size as DVDs, so it will store them equally well. To that end, I borrowed and compiled design elements from classic Arts and Crafts examples: rectilinear details, tapering front rails and the repetitive lines of the exposed storage area are a few examples.

Constructing the Front

Marking out mortise and tenon joints for entertainment center base
After cutting the mortise-and-tenon joints at the bottom of the front’s rails and stiles, the author dry-assembled the joints, trued them with a framing square, and marked the angles on the tapered stiles.

The case is constructed of three subassemblies: the plinth, which lifts the piece from the floor; a solid-oak front (a modified face frame), which creates the shape of the entertainment center’s silhouette; and a central box that holds the center’s various storage compartments.

Gluing and attaching base assembly for entertainment center
This photo shows a back view of the front assembly. Notice that the top rail is screwed to the back of the stiles (and the tapered stiles are temporarily attached to the top rail), rather than being tenoned.

I built the front from solid oak, tenoning the various stiles into the bottom front rail, while the top rail sits behind the stiles and is screwed to their back faces. In my original drawings of the entertainment center, the top rail was mortised to receive tenons on the stiles, but — at least to my eye — the presence of that top rail created a visual dead space over the storage slots.

Cutting rabbet with fillester hand tool
A solid oak cleat supports the front edge of the plywood plinth deck. The author cut the rabbet on the bottom front edge of the plinth deck using a moving filletster made in 1840.

In a bit of an unusual technique, I glued and screwed the back of the bottom rail to a cleat that would catch the lip of a rabbet on the plinth deck.

The most complicated feature of the entertainment center’s construction was the installation of the tapered stiles. In order to open up the spaces above the banks of storage slots, I decided to stop the top rail at the stile on either side of the central compartment.

Pieces laid out for creating entertainment center base
Cutting a single rabbet in this manner is not only quicker than it would be with a router or table saw (you don’t have any cutters to change when you’re using a moving filletster); it is also infinitely more pleasant to perform the work with a hand tool that saw its first use in a shop lit by candles or gas lamps.

This would have left those tapered stiles unsupported (with no rail connected to them) at the top prior to the installation of the unit’s top. In order to stabilize the tapered rails, I temporarily ran the top rail long, across the top of the storage slot openings, attaching it to the tapered stiles with screws. Later, I cut the ends free after the front was screwed in place. (Note: these rails are tapered only after they have had the tenons formed on one end and test fitted in the front.)

Making the Plinth

Assembling plinth for entertainment center project
The plinth (or base) is assembled with 1-5/8” drywall screws. The front edge of the plinth deck is screwed to the 3/8″ x 3/8″ cleat using 3/4″ screws.

My dad was a cabinetmaker for much of his working life, building custom cabinets for dozens of kitchens and bathrooms, as well as dozens of commercial offices in northern Ohio. The plinth — or base — for each of his cabinets was constructed of 1 x 3 material nailed together into a ladder-like frame to which the cabinet front was attached and on which the cabinet was constructed. This is the approach I used for building the plinth of this entertainment center.

Attaching plinth pieces for entertainment center
Notice that the front and plinth are already joined via the small glue blocks on either end of the plinth.

I built a ladder from spruce furring strips ripped to a 2-1/8″ width that I fastened together with 1-5/8″ drywall screws. The ladder was built without a front rail in order to create visual space under the arc at the bottom of the cabinet front.

Screwing entertainment center base together
More screws were then used to attach the bottom to the plinth.

I then attached two glue blocks on the inside front end of the ladder’s long end pieces. These provided me with my initial attachment points for joining the plinth to the front. This attachment was reinforced as other components of the case were installed, by attaching them to the front and to the plinth.

Assembling the Case

Installing temporary corner brackets in entertainment center case
Plywood corner brackets, which stabilized the end panels during assembly, were temporarily screwed to the inside surfaces of the cabinet. Notice that the top rail of the front has been cut off and planed flat at this stage of the assembly.

The case of this entertainment center is fabricated from oak plywood. Plywood is much better for the case than glued-up panels of solid oak for several reasons. First, plywood panels need only to be cut to size. It isn’t necessary to glue up narrower boards and then surface them before sizing them. Second, plywood is dimensionally stable. It doesn’t shrink across the grain, which eliminates the need for frame-and-panel construction. Plywood is also much less expensive than enough solid wood to create the top and end panels. And finally, plywood is much lighter, and speaking from the point of view of someone who carried one end of this cabinet into my son’s second floor apartment, a heavier cabinet would not have been wise.

Installing cleats in entertainment center case
Cleats create strong glue joints in plywood cases, but care must be taken so that their installation screws extend through the cleats no more than 5/8” when used with plywood that is nominally 3/4″ thick.

The plinth deck is a sheet of paint-grade plywood which is rabbeted on its front bottom edge so it could be screwed to the oak cleat on the front’s bottom rail. I then screwed the bottom to the plinth with 1-5/8″ drywall screws, giving me a solid base for the rest of the construction.

Close-up of cleats for entertainment center case
Glued and screwed cleats were applied to the inside top surfaces of the end panels, then to the underside of the top.

Next, I removed the screws attaching the front’s top rail to the tapering outside stile and cut that rail off on the outside of the stiles, planing the end grain flush with their outside edges. The end panels are made from oak veneered plywood, but to economize on the oak plywood, I created the interior walls from two pieces of plywood (the front and rear dividers). The front section was oak plywood, but the back section was paint grade ply. The end panels and the front dividers require careful preparation: 1/4″ x 1/4″ dadoes need to be milled onto these surfaces to accept the ends of the short oak shelves that will be housed there (see the Drawings). The dadoes on the end panel must be long enough (15″) to allow the shelves to be slid in from the back of the cabinet prior to the installation of the rear dividers. The front edge of these dadoes are blocked by the cabinet front.

Solid oak banding on entertainment center case
Once the top was installed on the cabinet, solid-oak banding was applied to hide the raw plywood edges.

After I finished those dadoes, I plowed the slots for the game case shelves. It was now time to install the two end panels. To stabilize them until the top had been installed, I first temporarily placed corner brackets into position, screwing these brackets to the base of the cabinets and the inside face of the end panels. I typically use these brackets to ensure that case pieces remain square while the glue is drying, but I’ve found them useful in many other assembly contexts as well.

Installing thin veneer strip on entertainment center case edges
This narrow strip of inlaid veneer hides the paint-grade plywood below the bottom small shelf.

I screwed the bottom of each end panel to the plinth, and at the same time I applied glue to the forward edge of the end panels and clamped them to the front until the glue had cured. Following that, I installed cleats (see the Drawings for details) on the top inside face of each end panel. These cleats are the primary means of attaching the top. From oak plywood I cut out the top and secured it to the cleats, then I removed the corner brackets.

Weighing veneer glue-up installation with electric motor
The author weighted the veneer strip in place during gluing with an electric motor positioned on a strip of hardwood.

Once the top was attached, I put the cabinet face down and installed cleats on the top and the plinth deck to which I would screw the front and rear dividers. First I had to notch the front dividers to accommodate the top rail. Then I secured the front divider to the cleats with glue and screws. Now is the time that you need to put the solid oak shelves into the 1/4″ x 1/4″ dadoes that you cut earlier. As I was preparing to mount the small shelves that would contain the game boxes, I realized that a narrow band of the paint-grade plywood I used for the bottom of the cabinet would be visible below the bottom shelf, so I removed the top veneer layer of the paint-grade plywood from that visible section and replaced it with a strip of oak veneer. Sometimes late “discoveries” like this happen even to very experienced woodworkers.

Shaving shelves with small hand plane
The small shelves were thicknessed to the exact width of the dadoes in which they would be installed. That meant that the underside of the edges had to be relieved with a block plane during fitting.

After that repair, I glued the shelves into their grooves, fitting each with a few strokes of a block plane. As I did so, I glued the shelf stops on each shelf with a quick rub joint. (Note: As you can see in the photo at right, the rear divider isn’t installed until after all the small shelves are in place.) Four additional cleats hold the two large shelves — mount them as shown in the drawings. Then attach the shelves to the cleats … I made mine from oak plywood with a solid oak facing on the front edge.

Building the Doors

Cutting entertainment center door tenons with dado blade on table saw
Door tenons were milled to rough size at the table saw using a stack of dado cutters, then fine-tuned with a shoulder plane to fit their mortises.

The doors are made from solid oak using frame-and-panel construction. I first chopped the mortises in the stiles and cut matching tenons on the rails, fitting each to its mortise with a shoulder plane. (See the Drawings for details.) Then, on the table saw, I plowed the 5/16″ x 5/16″ grooves in the rail and stile stock that would receive the edges of the door panels, after which I turned my attention to the raised panels that would be fit inside the frames.

Cutting entertainment center door panel grooves at table saw
The author turned to his table saw to cut grooves in the rails and stiles for housing the floating door panels. It took a few quick passes per stile and rail.

The flat front face of each door panel is decorated with walnut stringing made with a quick-and-dirty inlay technique. I first used a hollow-ground planer blade on my table saw to cut clean grooves on the face of each panel. I left that same blade in the saw to rip off thin strips from a walnut panel I had thicknessed to the exact width of the grooves. After applying a little glue to the grooves, I tapped the strips into place. I completed the process by planing each strip flush with the surface.

Shaving down entertainment center door panels with plane
The back of the door panels were raised with a sharp jack plane: cut down to pencil lines running around the edges of each panel with pencil lines on the back surfaces.

Since the door panels show their flat faces in front, I raised the back surface of each panel by planing wide bevels all around to reduce the edge thickness. The bevels were laid out by marking one line on the edges of each panel about 5/16″ from the front surface and a second on the back surface of each panel about 1-1/2″ from the edge.

Marking entertainment center door panel edges
A pencil line gives the author a guide line for planing the top edges of the doors to achieve a consistent gap.

After dry-assembling each door to check the joinery, I glued the mortises and tenons and clamped the assembled door, leaving it to cure on a flat surface.

Marking screw hole in entertainment center door
A tapered center punch creates a dimple in the exact center of a screw hole.

My setup for mortising door hinges employs a vise, a catch block and one of the corner brackets I used earlier when installing the end panels. This presents the door at a convenient height for handwork and keeps it stable under the force of chisels and a mallet.

Checking screw hole marking on entertainment center door
This dimple can then be used to reference the point of a drill bit.

The mortises on the door frame, however, have to be chopped on the assembled cabinet in less convenient circumstances. However, despite my gauge and my careful installation, I still managed to goof in the installation of one door. I could have filled the hinge screw holes and re-installed the hinges. (Like I said, things can happen …) Instead, I decided to fix the error with a plane. To do this, I marked the high section with pencil scribble, then removed the hinges and planed those scribbled high areas flat.

Marking entertainment center case for door hinge installation
The author also uses a piece of scrap, with a rabbet the same depth as the pin diameter, as a hinge-setting gauge on both the door and the frame for accurate hinge installation.

Now that my machining and joinery was completed, I moved to sanding the project smooth up through the grits, and applied three coats of oil-based polyurethane — this sort of project takes a bit of abuse.

Marking entertainment center door panel stile
He marks the high section of a door with a pencil scribble, then planes it away to bring the door stile flush.

All that remained to do was to bring it to my son’s apartment, which unfortunately meant carrying it up a few flights of stairs. Maybe the next time I offer to build something for him, delivery will not be included in the bargain.

Click Here to Download the Drawings and Materials List.

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